Tuesday, September 4, 2012

French Mussel Bisque

I can't recall the first time I had mussels...but I know it was within the last 18 months. Since whatever that first time was, I've been hooked. I've had mussels in a spicy red curry sauce at a great little oceanside place in Santa Monica; mussels in a warm, luxurious saffron sauce at a  semi-gothic-inspired little place on a chilly spring night in Chicago; mussels in a bacon and smoked-grape sauce so good I nearly made myself sick soaking it up with toasted baguettes.

Then, as if it were fate, I was watching my favorite Food Network star, the Barefoot Contessa, and, lo and behold, she made mussel bisque! I pretty much immediately found a seafood dealer in Chicago where I was able to hand-pick the freshest mussels available in the Midwest. Here's the amazing pot of bisque in which they met their fate.

Ingredients
1 (750-ml) bottle dry white wine
3 lbs. fresh mussels (preparation below)
6 tbsp. butter
2 yellow onions, chopped
1 large leek, cleaned and chopped (white and light green parts only)
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. saffron threads
Salt and black pepper
4 whole canned San Marzano tomatoes, chopped
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1 cup heavy cream
2 tbsp. fresh dill, minced

Directions
First, let's prep those fresh mussels. It might sound (and look) intimidating, but it's really not at all!
1. When you buy the mussels at your local seafood seller, don't close the bag! Make sure you pack them in a ton of crushed ice and leave the bag open as you travel directly home. If you close the bag, you'll suffocate those mussels!
2. When you get home, place the mussels immediately in your refrigerator (still bag-open) if you're not ready to prep them. But make sure you make them that same day.
3. When you are ready to start prepping, sift through the mussels for any that are chipped and discard. Also, if any are open, tap them shut a couple times. Some may close right up (which means they're still good), but if it doesn't, discard! It's a bad little mussel.
4. Soak the mussels in a large pot covered with cold water for 20 minutes. This allows them to keep breathing (you'll see bubbles pop at the water's surface), which then allows them to filter out any sand that would otherwise make your bisque very gritty (yuck!)
5. When the mussels are ready, remove them one at a time from the soaking pot and remove the beard (it's that little brown stringy thing hanging out of the side). To remove, use your fingers or a dry paper towel and pull quickly toward the back of the mussel in one sharp movement. 
*Note: Do not pull the beard straight out, or you could kill the mussel.

6. Once the mussels are cleaned and de-bearded, set aside and pat the shells dry.
7. Bring a large pot with 1 1/2 cups water and 1 cup white wine to a boil and add the mussels.
8. Cover and cook over medium heat for five minutes (do not peak!). Then the mussels will open. Remove from heat.
 9. When they are cool enough to handle, separate the mussels from their shells and set aside in a dish. Discard the shells and any mussels that didn't open.
10. Strain the cooking liquid through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a bowl and reserve.
11. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat.
12. Meanwhile, chop the onions, leek and carrots. Mince the garlic.
13. When the butter is melted, add the onions, leeks, carrots, garlic, saffron, 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Saute for five minutes, stirring occasionally.
 14. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.
15. Chop the San Marzano tomatoes and add to the vegetable pot. Cook for another minute.
16. Add 2 cups of the reserved mussel-cooking liquid and the rest of the white wine.
Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer uncovered for five minutes.
17. Add the mussels, half-and-half and the heavy cream. Heat until heated through but not boiling.
18. Stir in the dill, 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper.
19. Serve piping hot with a french baguette (slice it on the diagonal, brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, broil until golden and then rub with a garlic clove while hot).

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